How to spot a genuine Hawaiian shirt

The Hawaiian shirt, or aloha shirt, originated in Honolulu in the 1930s. Behind the colourful prints lies genuine craftsmanship, and not all floral shirts are created equal. Here are the criteria we use at VestiaireFMR before selecting a piece.

1. The label: the first clue

Historic brands such as Reyn Spooner, Kahala, Tori Richard, Kamehameha and Sun Surf almost always indicate that the items are made in Hawaii, Japan or the United States. A ‘Made in Hawaii’ label combined with a neatly finished woven label is a very good sign. Labels printed directly onto the fabric, which are blurry or poorly centred, are often a sign of recent, low-cost production.

2. The subject matter

The most sought-after aloha shirts are made from rayon (viscose), combed cotton or silk. Vintage rayon has a flowing, slightly heavy drape and a very distinctive matt satin finish.

Be wary, however, of a common misconception: polyester is not necessarily synonymous with a knock-off. Authentic Hawaiian brands, particularly from the 1970s onwards, produced genuine polyester aloha shirts, sometimes blended with cotton. What usually gives a counterfeit away is stiff, very shiny, low-quality polyester combined with shoddy workmanship.

That said, here at VestiaireFMR, we’ve made a conscious choice: our range focuses on natural fabrics and rayon, for comfort, breathability and long-lasting quality. You won’t therefore find any polyester Hawaiian shirts in our collection, even if they are authentic.

3. The pattern and its alignment

This is the most telling detail. On a well-made shirt, the pattern aligns at the placket, the pockets and sometimes the shoulders. The breast pocket should literally disappear into the print. A pattern that is misaligned with the seams suggests that the fabric has been cut in a cost-saving manner.

4. The buttons

Coconut, mother-of-pearl, wood or corozo: natural buttons are the norm on fine pieces. They are slightly irregular, matt, and pleasantly cool to the touch. High-gloss, perfectly identical plastic buttons are a red flag.

5. The cut and the finishing touches

A camp-collar neckline that lies flat, a straight cut worn over trousers, a straight hem, and even seams that are often top-stitched. On the inside, the finish must be neat, with no loose threads or rough overlocking.

6. Traditional patterns

Hibiscus and plumeria flowers, monstera leaves, canoes, surfers, seaside landscapes, and tapa patterns inspired by Polynesian art. The most sought-after prints tell a story of the islands, whereas imitations are content with generic flowers repeated identically.

Our second-hand advice

A well-preserved vintage Hawaiian shirt can also be recognised by its patina: the rayon softens with age without losing its colour. Check the underarms, the collar and the pocket edges, as these are the areas where wear first becomes apparent. Wash in cold water, preferably by hand, and dry flat to preserve the fibre.

Every item we offer is unique, inspected and described in detail, with measurements provided.